Ride-Ready Tips
A bunch of tips to get you, your gear, and your bike ride-ready…
bike Tips
10 things to check on your bike before you get out on the road again:
Make sure your tyre tread depth is at least 1.5 mm (the legal minimum) over at least 75% of the road-contact surface of the tyre. Many modern tyres have a wear indicator, which is a thin bit of rubber that projects from the bottom of the tread ‘valley’. If that is flush with the surface of the tyre, that‘s your legal minimum. Otherwise, measure using a tread gauge or a precision steel ruler.
Bear in mind, that ‘legal minimum’ is not optimal for wet roads and the thinner tyres puncture more easily. While you’re there, check the side walls for any cracking, crazing or splits, and, if you've left the bike on its tyres for winter, check they’re still round!
Check your tyre pressure. If you haven’t established the pressures that work best for you, your suspension set-up, and the tyres you're using, via the likes of a Dave Moss workshop, then check the factory recommendations in your manual or find them online. Then check the tyres with a gauge. Using the one at the servo is better than nothing but an accurate gauge is something every rider should own.
Check your lights are working. Check dipped beam, full beam, rear light, brake lights (check front and rear brake separately), plus all four indicators.
Look over the brake discs for any rust, pitting or damage. Look at the brake pads inside the calipers - do they have plenty of meat left? Squeeze the pedal and lever to check for smooth operation and pressure. Sit on the bike, roll it forward, and check for operation. Finally, take it for a short test ride, making sure the brakes are operating 100%, then look over the fluid levels and hoses to check for any cracks or leaks.
Check the fluid levels in all master cylinders. If they’ve gone down while the bike has been sitting, be suspicious. Give the master cylinders a visual insertion for any weeping or leaks, then follow the brake hoses all the way down the calipers looking for damage or seepage. If you do have to top up the fluid levels, use high quality fluid from a sealed, preferably new, container. Brake fluid is highly damaging to paintwork, so ensure your tank and any other painted areas are protected.
Check your oil level. Ensure the bike is positioned bolt upright, not on its side stand; use a centre stand, paddock stand or get a mate to help. Many bikes have a sight glass, others use a dip stick. If you do need to top up the oil, make sure you use the recommended grade for your bike. Add oil gradually, a little at a time, then check; too much oil in an engine can be catastrophically damaging. If you overfill you’ll need to drain some out via the sump plug (use a new gasket and retighten with a torque wrench to the correct setting).
Check the chain condition. Get the back wheel off the ground so you can rotate it by hand and turn the wheel with one hand so you can check the chain, section by section. Look for tight spots or links that are seized. If you do find a problem area, it may free up with a clean and lube but if it’s in any way stubborn, you’ll need to replace the chain. Check the teeth on the rear sprocket: if they're hooked or worn to a point it’s time to replace it. And if the back is worn, the front is likely to be too. Often there’s an inspection cover that can be removed with a few screws to let you check the front sprocket.
After inspection, clean the chain with proprietary chain cleaner and a plastic bristle brush then lube thoroughly, spraying the chain lube between all the moving surfaces from the inside of the chain (not the outside, which will mostly just fling off). If you have shaft drive, lucky you; all that’s needed is a quick check for leaks and roll the bike forward in neutral to check the shaft rotates freely.
Don’t neglect your cables and controls. Look over the hand and foot levers and make sure nothing’s loose, then squeeze the levers to make sure they’re free. If you have a cable clutch, make sure the cable action is smooth and check the top and bottom of the cable to ensure there’s no fraying or rust. If you do see rust or fraying, it’s time for a replacement.
Check your suspension by sitting on the bike and bouncing the rear shock. It should compress smoothly and then release smoothly, in one movement. It should not bounce back up so hard that it hits you in the butt, which would indicate faulty rebound damping, nor go back into a second stroke, which indicates insufficient compression damping. If either happens, check the shock(s) for weeping; a leak will mean a rebuild or replacement.
For the front, remove any dust or dirt on the fork legs, then hold onto the front brake and push the bars down. Again, the suspension should compress and then release in one smooth, damped movement, not stick, kick up, or go into a second movement. Check the front fork legs for oil leaks, which would indicate new seals are needed. Any difference in damping from how it was when you put the bike away indicates a potential problem, not something you should adjust, so get it looked at.
Finally, check your steering control. Ideally, you need to get the front wheel off the ground to check this. Turn the bars from side to side: there should be no resistance, sticking or noise from the head bearings. Holding the ends of the forks near the wheel spindle, try to move them forwards and backwards. There should be no discernible movement at the steering head. If there is, the bearings will need to be looked at by a mechanic; some are adjustable, others will need replacing.
Gear Tips
Check gear ratings and reviews; look for abrasion resistance, thermal resistance, and temperature ratings.
We recommend MotoCap (Motorcycle Clothing Assessment Program), a free, online resource supported by governments and road safety organisations across Australia and New Zealand. MotoCAP tests gear using rigorous, scientific methods to provide ratings for motorcyclists to choose the right gear with the best protection and breathability for their ride!
Check that your gloves extend about 5cm above the wrist. Gloves should also have knuckle protection and palm sliders.
Check your helmet padding is still in good condition. If it’s time for a new helmet, check out the helmet-fitting guide on MotoCap’s website.
Remember, wearing the wrong size helmet can increase your risk of serious injury or death in a crash.
Check your boots have protection for your ankles and shins; if they don’t, it's time to invest! Feet and leg injuries are the most common of all riding accidents so proper motorcycle boots with built-in armour will make a big difference!
Check out Ride Forever’s guide on looking after your gear. If you care for your gear, it will continue to look after you.
Rider Tips
Consider jumping on a first aid course with Nine Scott - a 2.5-hour, realistic, no-nonsense training presentation about what to do if you are the first responder at a road accident.
Check out the CBTA programme. Competency-based training and assessment (CBTA) gives you options, and instead of taking a practical test at each stage of your licence, you can choose to have your riding skills assessed by an approved CBTA assessor. This option can reduce the time it takes you to gain your restricted or full motorcycle licence.
Upskill with a free Ride Forever course:
The Bronze course is ideal for getting pointers while you get ready for the CBTA Restricted test or for returning riders to ensure they’re getting the basics right.
The Silver is an intermediate-level course with a focus on open-road riding; perfect preparation for the full 6F licence.
The Gold course is for experienced riders. Prepare for a day that will stretch you and prove highly satisfying.